Hanoi Food Trail 2023

Hanoi Food Trail 2023

These were the places we visited and ate at, as regular paying customers, on the Hanoi Food Trail 2023 in Hanoi, Vietnam.

• Day 1
• Bánh Mì Phố
• Pullman Hanoi Hotel Executive Lounge
• Quán Nem


• Day 2
• Phở Bò Cồ Sơn
• Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân
• Bún Chả Hương Liên


• Day 3
• Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành
• Chả Cá Lã Vọng
• Xôi Yến
• Cafe Giảng


• Day 4
• Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư
• Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc
• Bún Chả Đắc Kim


• Day 5
• Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành
• Kem Caramen Dương Hoa
• The Running Bean
• Quán Hải Sản Hương Lan / Huong Lan Seafood Shop


• Day 6
• Home Hanoi Restaurant

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Day 1
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Bánh Mì Phố
@ 183 P. Giảng Võ, Chợ Dừa, Đống Đa, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Tue - Sun 6:30am – 8:30pm, Mon 8am – 8:30pm
https://banhmipho.vn/


Arrived into Hanoi, Vietnam past the usual lunch time, and only realised belatedly that most stalls close to rest in the afternoon (despite their opening hours stating that they're open all day - Google maps isn't the most accurate here). Wandered around to find something, anything, that was open in the late afternoon, and stumbled upon Bánh Mì Phố, which has several stalls around the city.

Generally regarded as a mass-market option, Bánh Mì Phố has decent above average food quality, though most will agree it's not the best, or the cheapest, option around. Ambience at Bánh Mì Phố is pure takeaway kiosk, with large signages that catch the eye, and helpful menu pictures with descriptions in both Vietnamese and English. Service at Bánh Mì Phố is fast and enthusiastic, the mostly young staff working quickly to prepare and pack orders. Ordering can be done simply by pointing at the menu pictures.

Bánh Mì Phố Facade

Bánh Mì Phố Menu

Packaging

My opinion largely aligns with others who've eaten at Bánh Mì Phố - the baguette bread is excellent with its crisp flaky soft texture, but the filling wasn't as generous or as warm as expected, though it's still decently tasty. The Bánh Mì Pate Chả Nóng / Pork Pate And Ham Sandwich (VND ₫35,000) features cucumber, yellow onions, pork ham, and pork pate, but still feels rather flat. I expected a bit more variety of vegetables. Still, the juicy crisp tender soft texture, and bright meaty vegetal sweet savoury salty flavour, was sufficiently satisfying for a quick light meal. Alright.

Bánh Mì Pate Chả Nóng / Pork Pate And Ham Sandwich (VND ₫35,000)

Bánh Mì Pate Chả Nóng / Pork Pate And Ham Sandwich

Bánh Mì Pate Chả Nóng / Pork Pate And Ham Sandwich

Bánh Mì Pate Chả Nóng / Pork Pate And Ham Sandwich

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Pullman Hanoi Hotel Executive Lounge
@ 40 P. Cát Linh / 61 P. Giảng Võ, Chợ Dừa, Đống Đa, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6:30am – 8pm
https://pullman-hanoi.com/


Retreated to relax and check out the Pullman Hanoi Hotel Executive Lounge, which was open for members and guests with access.

Sampled the Beer Halida which was on tap, and also a canned Beer 333 Premium Export. These are light enough that you could drink several at a time, and nicely refreshing on warm days.

Beer Halida

Beer 333 Premium Export

The Chả Giò / Nêm Rán / Fried Spring Rolls were warm, nicely crunchy tender juicy in texture, with pleasant vegetal sweet salty flavour. The rendition here was the vegetarian option. Alright.

Chả Giò / Nêm Rán / Fried Spring Rolls

Chả Giò / Nêm Rán / Fried Spring Rolls

The Chè Sen Long Nhãn / Lotus Seeds And Longan Dessert Soup was served chilled, and felt comforting. The stewed lotus seeds were firm crunchy, the longan juicy soft, the syrup thick viscous, and the coconut milk add-on was creamy. With its bright earthy fruity sweet nutty milky flavour, this was a soulful dessert. Good!

Chè Sen Long Nhãn / Lotus Seeds And Longan Dessert Soup

Chè Sen Long Nhãn / Lotus Seeds And Longan Dessert Soup

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Quán Nem
@ 106-K1 P. Giảng Võ, Chợ Dừa, Đống Đa, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 9am – 9:30pm
http://quannem.com.vn/index.php/en/


While exploring the hotel surroundings, realised there was a street full of restaurants nearby. Among them was Quán Nem, a family-run chain of restaurants specialising in traditional Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls. Founded in June 2003, the quality and consistency of their dishes has helped Quán Nem to grow with several more stalls opening across the country.

Ambience at Quán Nem is homely and rustic, with warm lighting and simple sturdy wooden furnishings (of regular height, making it comfortable for non-locals as well). The place is clean and air-conditioned, with touches of Vietnamese decor. Service at Quán Nem is good, with staff welcoming and quickly seating guests, as well as clearing up quickly when diners are finished. The menu has helpful English descriptions and clear pricing. Food at Quán Nem focuses on 2 Vietnamese speciality dishes, both executed to high quality. Prices are higher than street food naturally, but still within reasonable grounds.

Quán Nem Exterior

Quán Nem Interior

Quán Nem Menu

Quán Nem Menu

Quán Nem Menu

A refreshing Beer Saigon Special (VND ₫28,000) to accompany the meal.

Beer Saigon Special (VND ₫28,000)

The Nem Cua Biển Đặt Bữa Ăn / Crab Spring Rolls Set Meal (VND ₫94,000) has generous portions. Served on a sizzling hot plate, the large packet-like Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls is cut into pieces tableside by staff, who will also guide you on how best to eat it. Pull off some Rice Vermicelli Noodles, top it with your selected vegetables from the Salad plate, dress with Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce and Condiments. You get a combination of crisp crunchy soft textures, and smoky meaty sweet savoury salty briny grainy vegetal earthy herbal bitter tangy zesty sour flavours. Utterly delicious, I craved more. Highly recommended!

Nem Cua Biển Đặt Bữa Ăn / Crab Spring Rolls Set Meal (VND ₫94,000)

Rice Vermicelli Noodles

Salad

Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

Condiments

Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls

Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls

Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls

Nem Cua Bể / Crab Spring Rolls

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Day 2
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Phở Bò Cồ Sơn
@ 9 P. Giang Văn Minh, Chợ Dừa, Đống Đa, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6am – 2pm


Found a gem of a street hawker in the vicinity of the hotel, in Phở Bò Cồ Sơn. The large signage was unmissable as I crossed the street, and the steady stream of locals stopping by to dine, as well as the relatively clean premises of Phở Bò Cồ Sơn, lent confidence.

Ambience at Phở Bò Cồ Sơn is casual and functional. The place is relatively clean with low lights, and functional furnishings of medium height. Diners seat communally at long shared tables. Service at Phở Bò Cồ Sơn is quick and efficient, and staff are able to communicate with minimal broken English and through gesturing. Food at Phở Bò Cồ Sơn is of good quality, focused on Phở Bò / Pho Beef Noodles, served with generous portions. Prices are affordable, as they serve mainly locals.

Phở Bò Cồ Sơn Facade

Phở Bò Cồ Sơn Menu

The Phở Bò Tái Chín / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Steak (VND ₫40,000) makes for a hearty breakfast. The clear beef broth has meaty sweet savoury flavour, while the silky soft bánh phở / wide flat rice noodles has grainy sweet flavour. The thinly sliced cuts of round steak, some well-done, others medium-rare, have a satisfying tender chew with bold meaty savoury salty flavour. The mix of fresh crisp vegetables (such as spring onions, mint leaves, coriander, or scallions) lend vegetal earthy herbal sweet flavour.

Phở Bò Tái Chín / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Steak (VND ₫40,000)

Phở Bò Tái Chín / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Steak

Phở Bò Tái Chín / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Steak

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Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân
@ 119 P. Nguyễn Trường Tộ, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6:30am – 10pm


Was searching for decent places to eat near an attraction, and came upon Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân. The place looked clean and welcoming, so decided to pop in to Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân.

Ambience at Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân is brightly lit, clean, and spartan. Low functional furnishings are neatly arrayed within, meant for grabbing quick bites. Service at Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân is friendly enough, with the middle-aged couple running the place communicating via gesturing. Food at Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân is decent, it won't make top 10 lists, but is functionally tasty and well put together. Prices are among the cheapest around.

Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân Facade

For what it's worth, the Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls (VND ₫33,000) is among the cheapest meals I had during my entire visit here. You get 5 of the thin sticky rice noodle rolls, and a decent portion of stuffing with tender minced pork and springy diced wood ear mushrooms, garnished with crispy fried shallots. These have lovely grainy earthy sweet savoury flavour. I also like the bouncy Chả Lụa / Pork Bologna Sausage in the tasty Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, which has combined tangy zesty sour salty savoury sweet flavour. Good!

Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls (VND ₫33,000)

Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls

Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls

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Bún Chả Hương Liên
@ 24 P. Lê Văn Hưu, Phan Chu Trinh, Hai Bà Trưng, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: 8am – 8:30pm
https://www.facebook.com/bunchahuonglienobama


This family-run casual eatery Bún Chả Hương Liên was propelled to international fame in May 2016, when (the late) globetrotting American chef and TV personality Anthony Bourdain hosted (then) U.S. President Barack Obama, to a meal of Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles, cold Beer Hanoi, and Nem Hải Sản / Fried Seafood Rolls. Owner Nguyen Thi Lien has since enshrined the tables, chairs, and cutlery the pair used, where curious diners still flock to today. While Bún Chả Hương Liên attracts tourists, it's also still regularly frequented by locals.

Ambience at Bún Chả Hương Liên is casual, clean, and functional. The furnishings are of medium height, and the brightly lit place is clean and well-ventilated. The shrine of the famous visit is encased on the 2nd level. Service at Bún Chả Hương Liên is brusque, as it seemingly has always been. Staff work quickly, serving orders and cleaning tables. The menu is helpfully clear with pictures and English descriptions, and the most popular order is a set meal called "Suat An Obama / Order Like Obama", which gets you everything the pair ate. Food at Bún Chả Hương Liên is above average in quality, not the best around but delicious and accessible enough for most. Prices are comparable to elsewhere, notable because you'd expect a higher price, but no, it's about the same.

Bún Chả Hương Liên Facade

Bún Chả Hương Liên Menu

Picture Of Barack Obama & Anthony Bourdain

Wet Tissue Marketing

A refreshing Beer Hanoi (VND ₫25,000) to accompany the meal.

Beer Hanoi (VND ₫25,000)

Went with just a regular Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles (VND ₫50,000). The soft thin rice vermicelli noodles carry mild grainy sweet notes, while the side of crisp fresh salad (comprising lettuce, cilantro, mint leaves, and basil leaves) has vegetal earthy herbal sweet bitter flavour. The Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce is garnished with crunchy green papaya and carrot strips, and has lovely vegetal tangy zesty sour salty savoury sweet bitter flavour. The star is the grilled pork belly strips and grilled minced pork meat balls, tender and juicy with smoky meaty savoury salty sweet flavour. Good!

Rice Vermicelli Noodles

Salad

Grilled Pork Belly, Grilled Minced Pork Meat Balls

Grilled Pork Belly, Grilled Minced Pork Meat Balls

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles (VND ₫50,000)

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

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Day 3
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Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành
@ 29 Ng. Hàng Hành, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6am – 2pm


Came across Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành, and this little hole-in-the-wall casual eatery seemed to be well regarded for their signature dish of Bún Thang / Egg And Chicken Noodles. I understand they get quite a few tourists, since they're located near several budget hotels.

Ambience at Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành is cramped and small. The storefront steps is where the kitchen is, and the place only has room for 4 tables (of regular height), so diners have to share. Service at Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành is brusque, but you'll get by with some gesturing. The menu has helpful English descriptions too. Food at Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành is focused on the 2 dishes in their name, and is of good quality. Prices are comparable to other street stalls, relatively affordable.

Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành Facade

Bún Thang Xôi 29 Hàng Hành Menu

The bowl of Bún Thang / Egg And Chicken Noodles (VND ₫40,000) is warm, comforting goodness, so good. The combination of silky soft thin rice vermicelli noodles, tender chewy shredded chicken meat, spongy soft shredded strips of egg omelette, crisp coriander, and the light yet flavourful broth, is so yummy. Has wholesome sweet savoury eggy vegetal herbal flavour. Highly recommended!

Bún Thang / Egg And Chicken Noodles (VND ₫40,000)

Bún Thang / Egg And Chicken Noodles

Bún Thang / Egg And Chicken Noodles

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Chả Cá Lã Vọng
@ 107 P. Nguyễn Trường Tộ, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 10:30am – 2pm, 5:30pm – 9pm
https://www.facebook.com/Chacalavong.vn/


What else can be said about Chả Cá Lã Vọng, that hasn't already been widely publicised? That the dish of Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill was first created by couple Doan Phuc and Bi Van, and served to revolutionary soldiers? That the dish was named after Jiang Ziya (La Vong in Vietnamese), a Chinese noble that helped overthrow the Shang Dynasty? That on the urging of friends, they established a restaurant of the same name in 1871, which also served as a rebel hideout? That the restaurant quickly became a favoured dining spot of locals, and also the very aristocrats and colonial officials it sought to unseat? That as their popularity grew, some copied the dish and opened competing stalls with similar names, leading to the entire street being renamed to Chả Cá street in veneration? That the dish has come to be regarded as synonymous with Hanoi, and an iconic dish of Vietnam? Yes, Chả Cá Lã Vọng is all this and more.

For over 150 years, the Doan family has continued running Chả Cá Lã Vọng, still selling that 1 single dish, made the same way it's always been. Ambience at Chả Cá Lã Vọng is clean, casual, and functional. The place is brightly lit, neatly arrayed with sturdy wooden furnishings of regular height, and decently comfortable. Service at Chả Cá Lã Vọng is efficient and friendly, with staff guiding you on how best to eat the dish. There's no menu, they only sell 1 dish after all, but they can communicate in broken English. Food at Chả Cá Lã Vọng is needless to say, very good. After 150 years of specialising in a single dish, you'll be hard pressed to find better. Quality is consistent, and prices are reasonable.

Chả Cá Lã Vọng Exterior

Chả Cá Lã Vọng Interior

Wet Tissue

The various accoutrements work together to create the overall experience. You're meant to combine a bit of everything in each mouthful, the silky soft thin Rice Vermicelli Noodles with mild grainy sweet notes, the crisp fresh Spring Onions and Coriander with vegetal herbal sweet bitter flavour, the crunchy Roasted Peanuts with nutty flavour, and the fresh sliced Chili which lends a spicy kick. Everything is dunked or dipped into Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, which lends lovely tangy zesty sour salty savoury sweet flavour.

Rice Vermicelli Noodles

Spring Onions

Coriander

Roasted Peanuts

Chili

Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

Partaking in Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill (VND ₫170,000) feels like I'm tuned in to over a century's worth of tradition. The turmeric marinated catfish, tender and moist with bright spice savoury salty sweet flavour, and the crunchy dill soaking up the fish oil and spices, creating bold vegetal savoury sweet herbal spice flavour. Together with the assorted accoutrements, the intriguing muskiness contrasted by the freshness of herbs and seasoning, creates an unforgettable captivating memory. Highly recommended!

Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill (VND ₫170,000)

Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill

Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill

Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill

Chả Cá Lã Vọng / La Vong Grilled Turmeric Fish And Dill

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Xôi Yến
@ 35B P. Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6am – 11:50pm
https://www.facebook.com/xoiyen.vn/


I last visited Xôi Yến in 2015, and on this return, discovered they've become even more famous. They occupy the entire building now, with the Xôi Yến signage glowing bright in the night. The place remains packed at meal times, and even has queues of delivery riders waiting to collect orders.

Ambience at Xôi Yến is casual and functional. The brightly lit place has modern functional furnishings of low height, meant for diners to have a quick bite without lingering. Service at Xôi Yến moves at a rapid pace to fulfil orders and clean up, great because it means a shorter waiting time for all. The menu is clear, with helpful English translations. Food at Xôi Yến focuses on their signature Xôi / Sticky Rice, quality is consistently delicious. Prices are relatively affordable despite their fame.

Xôi Yến Facade

Xôi Yến Kitchen & Seating

Preparing Orders

Xôi Yến Menu

Xôi Yến Menu

As in 2015, I ordered the Xôi Xéo Thập Cẩm / Sticky Rice Mixed With Everything (VND ₫65,000). This heaping mountain features Xôi Xéo / Turmeric Sticky Rice With Shallots And Mung Beans, Lạp Sườn (Chinese dried pork sausage), Xỉa Thịt Lợn (pork floss), Thịt Lợn Băm Nhỏ (minced pork), Gà Xé (shredded chicken), Trứng Gà (chicken egg), and Chả Mỡ (pork pate). Carries sticky smooth soft chewy stringy crispy tender juicy textures, and grainy earthy sweet savoury spice salty eggy mineral flavour, as good as before. Also accompanied by fresh diced cucumber with bright vegetal sweet flavour. Good!

Xôi Xéo Thập Cẩm / Sticky Rice Mixed With Everything (VND ₫65,000)

Xôi Xéo Thập Cẩm / Sticky Rice Mixed With Everything

Xôi Xéo Thập Cẩm / Sticky Rice Mixed With Everything

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Cafe Giảng
@ 39 P. Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 7am – 10pm
https://www.cafegiang.vn/


Similar to our last visit in 2015, we dropped by Cafe Giảng after the meal at Xôi Yến, given that both shops are just metres apart. And why not? Cafe Giảng is a legend, ever since founder Nguyễn Van Giảng established it in 1946 and created the iconic Cà Phê Trứng / Egg Coffee, substituting milk (which was scarce at the time) for a unique blend of whisked egg yolks, sugar, butter, and cheese. Over 70 years on, descendants of his family still run Cafe Giảng, using the original unchanged recipe that propelled them to fame, and which has since become renowned as an iconic beverage of Hanoi and Vietnam.

Ambience at Cafe Giảng is like a time capsule, constant and unchanged after all these years. The narrow alley that leads into their small shop space, adequately lit and ventilated, is neatly arrayed with opulent antique furnishings of low height, decent enough for lingering and chatting. Service at Cafe Giảng, being family-run, is affable and efficient. Staff can engage in English conversations, and they make sure guests are comfortable. Food at Cafe Giảng is largely beverage-related, and prices are reasonable.

Cafe Giảng Entrance

Cafe Giảng Menu

What stands out about their Cà Phê Trứng / Egg Coffee (VND ₫35,000), other than the fact that it was invented here, is the delicate balance it has. They've hit on just the right ratio of strong robusta coffee to fluffy egg cream, making it addictive to drink, but not cloying. This sets them apart from most other stalls which have since copied their recipe. Like a rich tiramisu or crème brûlée dessert. Highly recommended!

Cà Phê Trứng / Egg Coffee (VND ₫35,000)

Cà Phê Trứng / Egg Coffee

Cà Phê Trứng / Egg Coffee

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Day 4
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Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư
@ 10 P. Lý Quốc Sư, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6am – 10pm
http://www.pho10lyquocsu.com.vn/


Feel a sense of pity for Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư. Their recipe for Phở Bò / Pho Beef Noodles is such a success, competitors have copied their branding outright (calling themselves "Phở Lý Quốc Sư") and opening over 300 franchise stalls all around the country... and yet, Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư still limits themselves to just 3 stalls, I suppose for consistency in quality. I can respect that, but I wonder if they feel frustrated seeing business going to their competitors (who have more accessible locations).

Ambience at Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư is modern and functional. The place is clean, brightly lit, and air-conditioned, with sturdy furnishings of regular height, but the place is small and cramped, meaning diners often have to share tables. Service at Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư is brusque, though staff can converse in minimal English. They work quickly to fulfill orders and clean up. Thankfully, the menu has helpful English translations. Food at Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư is focused on Phở Bò / Pho Beef Noodles, and quality is largely consistent. However, they are dogged by higher-than-average prices, commanding a premium, which some disagree with. Still, Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư manages to attract locals, not just tourists.

Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư Exterior

Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư Interior

Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư Menu

Disclaimer Against Fake Stalls

Ordered a Phở Bò Tái Nạm / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Flank (VND ₫70,000), which was delicious, holding soft chewy crisp tender textures and vegetal earthy herbal meaty sweet savoury salty grainy flavour. However, as compared to elsewhere, the portion size is a little smaller and less generous, though the price is higher. It seems returning local diners come back time and again for their familiar consistent taste, despite all else. Overall, I was rather happy with the meal, and would return again. Good!

Phở Bò Tái Nạm / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Flank (VND ₫70,000)

Phở Bò Tái Nạm / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Flank

Phở Bò Tái Nạm / Pho Beef Noodles Mixed Medium-Rare And Well-Done Flank

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Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc
@ 93 P. Hàng Bạc, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 9am – 10pm, Sun 9am – 5:30pm
https://www.facebook.com/Chengon93hangbac/


Frequented throughout the day by both local Vietnamese and tourists, Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc is renowned for a few things - their wide range of tasty Vietnamese desserts, their affordable prices, their comfortable ambience, and their commitment to hygiene as their desserts are all prepared using bottled mineral water. This makes Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc one of the outstanding dessert places of choice, recommended by many.

Ambience at Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc is clean, casual, and comfortable. The brightly lit place has different types of furnishings, including low height and regular height. Service at Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc is polite and friendly, with staff able to converse in minimal English. The menu has English translation, and orders are quickly fulfilled, as is cleaning up when diners are finished. Food at Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc is incredibly vast, more so than elsewhere. They offer a good range of main dishes, though the highlight is the wide range of desserts, prepared using bottled mineral water. Prices cater to locals, and are affordable.

Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc Signage

Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc Exterior

Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc Interior

Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc Menu

Chè Hương Hải 93 Hàng Bạc Menu

Preparation Area

Cooking With Mineral Water

Among the more popular and common Northern Vietnamese desserts is Chè Đậu Đen / Black Turtle Beans, Sago, And Jelly Dessert Soup (VND ₫22,000). This chilled dessert soup of stewed soft black turtle beans, chewy sago balls, and bouncy grass jelly chunks, all served over crushed ice, carry bright earthy sweet herbal flavour. It's also well regarded for its powerful anti-ageing properties of the ingredients, said to contribute to beautifying the skin. Highly recommended!

Chè Đậu Đen / Black Turtle Beans, Sago, And Jelly Dessert Soup (VND ₫22,000)

Chè Đậu Đen / Black Turtle Beans, Sago, And Jelly Dessert Soup

Chè Đậu Đen / Black Turtle Beans, Sago, And Jelly Dessert Soup

The Chè Khoai Dẻo / Sweet Potato, Yam Taro, Tapioca, And Jelly Dessert Soup (VND ₫28,000) is a good option for the undecided, or for those who like variety, with its serving of multi-coloured sticky chewy balls made from sweet potato flour, yam / taro flour, tapioca flour, or mung bean flour respectively, rounded off with creamy coconut milk and bouncy grass jelly chunks, all served over crushed ice. It carries bright earthy sweet herbal milky flavour, and is said to help with digestion, regulation of blood sugar levels, and strengthening the immune system. Good!

Chè Khoai Dẻo / Sweet Potato, Yam Taro, Tapioca, And Jelly Dessert Soup (VND ₫28,000)

Chè Khoai Dẻo / Sweet Potato, Yam Taro, Tapioca, And Jelly Dessert Soup

Chè Khoai Dẻo / Sweet Potato, Yam Taro, Tapioca, And Jelly Dessert Soup

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Bún Chả Đắc Kim
@ 1 P. Hàng Mành, Hàng Gai, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 10am – 8:30pm
https://bun-cha-dac-kim.business.site/


Among the more highly rated stalls for Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles in Hanoi, Vietnam, is Bún Chả Đắc Kim. While it's not the best place for the dish, it is among the more accessible and hygienic options, though their fame has led to higher pricing. I didn't quite like the touting that Bún Chả Đắc Kim does along the street corner, but their dishes are of a good baseline standard, and locals still frequent the place.

Ambience at Bún Chả Đắc Kim is bright, clean, casual, and cramped. The furnishings, both low and regular height, are closely packed, with diners sharing tables. But the place is clean, brightly lit, and well ventilated. Service at Bún Chả Đắc Kim is friendly and fast, with staff working quickly to find seats for guests, take and fulfil orders, and clean up when diners leave. They can communicate in minimal English. Food at Bún Chả Đắc Kim focuses on their signature dish, something they do consistently well. Prices are slightly higher than other similar eateries.

Bún Chả Đắc Kim Facade

Their signature Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles (VND ₫60,000) has a lovely smokiness to the tender and juicy grilled pork belly strips and grilled minced pork meat balls, carrying smoky meaty savoury salty sweet flavour. It's already served in the bowl of Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, together with crunchy green papaya and carrot strips, which lend vegetal tangy zesty sour salty savoury sweet bitter flavour. On the side is soft thin rice vermicelli noodles with mild grainy sweet notes, and crisp fresh salad (comprising lettuce, cilantro, mint leaves, and basil leaves) with vegetal earthy herbal sweet bitter flavour. A satisfying meal. Good!

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles (VND ₫60,000)

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

Bún Chả / Grilled Pork Noodles

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Day 5
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Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành
@ 66 P. Tô Hiến Thành, Bùi Thị Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 6am – 8pm
https://www.facebook.com/banhcuonbahoanh66tohienthanh/


Nearly a century old, the stalwart Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is a familiar and long-standing casual eatery, known to gourmands for serving among the best renditions of Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls. The family-run Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành bears the name of Grandpa Hoành, and their recipe remains traditional and true nearly 100-years on.

Ambience at Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is casual, clean, and functional. The brightly lit place is neatly lined with furnishings of low height, while the open kitchen at the entrance catches the eye. Service at Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is quick and polite, with staff guiding diners to available seats and conversing in broken English to take orders. I note orders are fulfilled quickly, and tables are efficiently cleaned. Food at Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành is authentic and of good quality, consistent across the years. They have a good range of dishes and snacks, freshly prepared throughout the day. Prices are catered to locals, being affordable.

Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành Signage

Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành Exterior

Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành Interior

Open Kitchen

Preparing Orders

The storefront display of snacks looks so appetizing. I hear their Bánh Tôm / Shrimp And Sweet Potato Fritters is pretty good, but I wasn't able to try it unfortunately.

Variety Of Snacks

Packs Of Bánh Tôm / Shrimp And Sweet Potato Fritters

The Bánh Cuốn Chả / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls With Pork Bologna Sausage Set (VND ₫45,000) rendition here is the best I had. The sticky rice noodle rolls are thin, yet hold the generous filling of tender minced pork and springy diced wood ear mushrooms without breaking. Topped with crispy fried shallots, this has lovely grainy earthy sweet savoury flavour. Served with a side of fresh crisp Coriander for added vegetal herbal bitter sweet flavour, and the traditional Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce paired with Chả Lụa / Pork Bologna Sausage, carrying lovely meaty tangy zesty sour salty savoury sweet flavour. Highly recommended!

Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls

Bánh Cuốn / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls

Coriander

Nước Chấm / Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, Chả Lụa / Pork Bologna Sausage

Bánh Cuốn Chả / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls With Pork Bologna Sausage Set (VND ₫45,000)

Bánh Cuốn Chả / Pork And Mushrooms Rice Noodle Rolls With Pork Bologna Sausage Set

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Kem Caramen Dương Hoa
@ 29 Hàng Than, Nguyễn Trung Trực, Ba Đình, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 10am – 9pm
https://www.facebook.com/Caramen29hangthan/


Opened since 1995, Kem Caramen Dương Hoa is the go-to place for a Vietnamese take on the classic French dessert, the ever popular Kem Caramen / Crème Caramel / Flan. The experience at Kem Caramen Dương Hoa is unlike any other, as the place feels less like a shop, more like a homely living room. Typically packed but with high turnover, the common wisdom is that 1 serving is never satisfying enough at Kem Caramen Dương Hoa, so most just default to ordering 2 or more servings per person.

Ambience at Kem Caramen Dương Hoa is homely. The dimly lit place is strewn with low plastic stools, but no tables, so you sit on one and grab another to act as a table. Service at Kem Caramen Dương Hoa will only take your orders once you're seated, but the menu is outside by the door, so you'll have to remember what you want to order. Staff can converse in minimal English with some effort. They serve orders quickly, and clean up efficiently too. Food at Kem Caramen Dương Hoa is focused on Vietnamese desserts, particularly puddings. Quality is excellent, and locals tend to order in bulk for takeaway. Prices are affordable, with one of the owners normally collecting payment at the door when you leave.

Kem Caramen Dương Hoa Exterior

Kem Caramen Dương Hoa Interior

Conventional street wisdom suggests that you never stop at just 1 order of Kem Caramen / Crème Caramel / Flan (VND ₫9,000), so I went ahead and got 2 orders. And regretted not getting more, the wobbly soft vanilla custard dessert pudding glazed with a thick sticky caramel sauce has a delightful floral sweet milky flavour. Served chilled, this was light on the palate without being cloying, feels like it almost melts in the mouth. Highly recommended!

Kem Caramen / Crème Caramel / Flan (VND ₫9,000)

Kem Caramen / Crème Caramel / Flan

Kem Caramen / Crème Caramel / Flan

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The Running Bean
@ 22 P. Nhà Thờ, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 8am – 9pm
https://innsaigon.com/the-running-bean/


Click here to read more about our dining experience at The Running Bean.

TRB Bò Né / Cow (VND ₫165,000) @ The Running Bean - Click To Read More

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Quán Hải Sản Hương Lan / Huong Lan Seafood Shop
@ 42/12 Nghĩa Dũng, Quận Tây Hồ, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 10:30am – 10pm
https://www.facebook.com/Hải-Sản-Hương-Lan-484764664917964/


Click here to read more about our dining experience at Quán Hải Sản Hương Lan / Huong Lan Seafood Shop.

Meal Flat Lay @ Quán Hải Sản Hương Lan / Huong Lan Seafood Shop - Click To Read More

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Day 6
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Home Hanoi Restaurant
@ 75 P. Nguyễn Đình Chiểu, Lê Đại Hành, Hai Bà Trưng, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Daily 11am – 2pm, 5:30pm – 10pm
https://homevietnameserestaurants.com/


Click here to read more about our dining experience at Home Hanoi Restaurant.

Lẩu Gà Lá Giang / Herbal Chicken Hot Pot @ Home Hanoi Restaurant - Click To Read More

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